Archive for January, 2008

Self-confidence earned in Starr Hill

January 31, 2008

My street is narrow and covered with ice. It is the only street on Juneau, I’ve heard, where you’re allowed to park the wrong way, because it is a cul-de-sac with no sac. The cars have worked two deep ruts into the ice. So even though you can’t see the pavement, you know where to drive. I find it easier than Glacier Highway, which is just a plain flat mix of white and black ice. But people who live in Juneau — downtown, as in below us — choose not to come up here if they can avoid it. I like to make a daily try just to see whether my car can do it with the California tires; why else did I get a Subaru?

So far I have not failed or even slipped much. The gravel-layers are usually reliable. But one day last week I parked at the end of the cul-de, on the hill. I parked facing up the hill. In the morning the snow around my car had solidified into an ice tureen, such as would serve punch to a party at the Ice Hotel up north. Any way I wanted to go was up a slippery hill.

I learned that the newfangled cat littler I buy is worthless for not only keeping my house free of cat stink, but also for traction. I bought it because it was made of old newspapers — being in the news business, I want the physical product to come to some use.

A white-bearded man started his big truck behind me as I was spinning on newspaper pellets.

“I’m too old and tired to help you,” he said. “There’s gravel in a bucket at the end of the street.”

“Thank you,” I said.

“You could always just walk to work and leave it til spring,” he suggested.

“Thank you,” I said.

The gravel was what I needed. I rolled on out with a greater sense of accomplishment than one ever feels leaving one’s Oakland driveway for work.

Cats drinking water

January 27, 2008

Why does it taste better out of a glass?

Potted eggs: Getting by in Juneau

January 27, 2008

Juneau: It’s a fine clear day, the mountains across the canal on Douglas are pink with sunrise.

It’s -16 with the windchill out there, people. My garbage can is overturned on the other side of the house. The top has gone to meet its maker, maybe out on Mt. Roberts. Birds huddle next to the Christmas lights in the trees outside. Bake them chicken eggs with shaved jamon serrano, a mix of taleggio and red hawk washed-rind cheese, and a bit of parsley and fresh pepper. Croissant on the side. That’ll save you!

It saved me. I’ve got more space than I need in this apartment, but less heat. The monitor says 46 degrees; the down button works, but not the up. It’s my second weekend back in Alaska after two years in Oakland, Calif. My toes have not yet forgiven me.

Still, we are adjusting. We — me and the cat. I got myself the requisite pair of Extra-Tufs; the kitten I got a cat. I’m slave-laboring for a newspaper up here, so I’ve hardly gotten to enjoy my new home or get to know the town. I’ve learned more about federal timber sales than the trail two blocks away from my house. Did you know the Forest Service’s first priority is to sell trees? I felt like such a naif …